We left Lima with plans to spend five days climbing at the renowned Hatan Machay, the only problem being we didn't really know where Hatan Machay was, just that it was in the Cordillera Negra which is next to the Cordillera Blanca somewhere near Huaraz. What we did know was that the guys at Andean Kingdom in Huaraz could tell us how to get there. So after spending one night at the lovely La Cabana hostel in Huaraz we walked down to Andean Kingdom for advice. The little plaza it was in was filled with lots of other climbing shops and tour operators offering guided high altitude mountain climbs. This was making it harder and harder for us to resist the temptation of the mountains, but that's for the next blog.
As it turns out we had passed Hatan Machay on the way to Huaraz, but we didn't realise as there is no sign whatsoever. So we headed back south again for forty minutes wishing we had listened to the instructions better about where to turn off onto a farm road. All we had was "turn right after a bridge, there will be abandoned houses on the left" (but of course there were many abandoned houses like in all of South America). In the end we turned off a little early but eventually found it. Set in a valley with the 17 bed stone lodge on a rise surrounded by tent sites, it's a 5 minute downhill walk to the rock forest which contains over 170 routes ranging from easy 5.8's to ridiculously hard 5.14's in difficulty... we were in heaven.
As it turns out we had passed Hatan Machay on the way to Huaraz, but we didn't realise as there is no sign whatsoever. So we headed back south again for forty minutes wishing we had listened to the instructions better about where to turn off onto a farm road. All we had was "turn right after a bridge, there will be abandoned houses on the left" (but of course there were many abandoned houses like in all of South America). In the end we turned off a little early but eventually found it. Set in a valley with the 17 bed stone lodge on a rise surrounded by tent sites, it's a 5 minute downhill walk to the rock forest which contains over 170 routes ranging from easy 5.8's to ridiculously hard 5.14's in difficulty... we were in heaven.
Hatan Machay is also located at 4,290m so we took it slow and began with lunch, cooking wholesome BLT's before heading out to climb. We are still pretty new to lead climbing so we watched some ladies on the easy 5.8 route then kindly asked them for a quick refresh lesson. They happily offered and even climbed along side us for the first one. After a couple more practices that afternoon on the easy wall we were set for four more days of safe lead climbing. At this point we realised that we didn't have enough quick draws to do the majority of the climbs, having only 6 where often over 15 were needed...
That evening we had a great time in the lodge before retiring to bed and a movie in the car. The kitchen had been busy with everyone cooking their dinner or otherwise chilling by the fire place. It was here we meet a Chilean / Czech couple who offered to sell us some of their quick draws, to which we eagerly agreed. The next morning we woke to the chilled out sounds of a guitar, ukulele and piano flute playing original tunes and Bob Marley classics. So we joined the others relaxing outside in the sun eating breakfast while enjoying the music and the general atmosphere of the place. We then paid for our 10 new quick draws and walked down to the rock face. First we practiced our rope techniques on an easy climb before moving up to some 5.9 routes. Already buggered I couldn't get up the last one so we puffed our way back up to the lodge for lunch.
After lunch there were tears from me as I got a bit freaked out and lost my nerve, for the next few days I struggled to get it back. Meanwhile Will was powering ahead climbing 5.10's and 5.10b's! One lunch time rather than going back to the lodge we watched the local boys on a smooth 5.12 with much admiration. The holds were impossibly small and we witnessed a few falls. That same afternoon we also went for a reckie through the rock forest and were amazed at the size of the place, you could spend months out here and still not climb everything.
Over the last two days Will really pushed his limits and climbed more 5.10a and 5.10b routes, with an overhanging 5.10c on the last day being his best effort to date. Though it took him two short falls to get up there. The problem Will faced with lead climbing these difficult routes was that if he didn't make it to the double bolt at the top then he couldn't retrieve his quick draws and would have to ask someone else to get them. This seemed to prove a huge motivator for Will and after the previous days top roping I managed to lead two 5.9's on the final day. Over all we both had a wicked time and for a remote lodge that even has hot showers we can't say enough good things about Hatun Machay.
Rochelle & Will
Rochelle & Will