We were feeling a little deflated after failing to climb Chimborazo, it felt like one big waste of time and money because of the bad weather. But in was the bad rainy weather in the adventure town of Banos that made it all the more fun! We arrived in Banos around 10 am having left Chimborazo early so had the whole day to play. First we found a hostel with parking and a laundry service then took a luxurious hot shower after four days without one. The hostel was called Llanovientos and the owner was fantastic full of recommendations that he drew all over the map he'd just given us. First we set out to the Piscinas de Santa Clara hot pools for a nice soak while it rained around us. They have many pools ranging in temperature but the water is brown due to the large number of minerals, also to use the pools everyone must wear a covered bathing cap or in our case a 25 cent plastic shower cap. Everyone looked pretty ridiculous and we still can't figure out why we had to wear them, possibly to keep hair out of the pool..?
That afternoon we took a drive down the La Ruta de las Cascadas (valley of the waterfalls). To get there we had to drive through a small flash flood which was spilling over the road. It was also filling people's homes with silty mud and splattered all over the relatively clean Dodge, darn it. Next we drove past an almost overflowing hydroelectric dam that was dumping huge amounts of water on one side while the other was almost bursting and sadly had a large pile of floating rubbish building up. Every waterfall we saw was pumping and every river brown, flooded and wild making for quite the sights. We made use of all this extra water at one point to wash the Dodge and got quite wet ourselves. By far the most spectacular thing we saw was the Pailón del Diablo. We didn't realise what our hostel owner had meant when he said not to go today but we soon understood when we arrived at the falls after the 15 minute walk downhill. The falls were absolutely raging as millions more litres than normal ploughed over the edge sending up huge waves of wash and making the viewing steps a very wet and potentially dangerous place. We pretended like the camera was waterproof and took a short video enjoy the power of the water but getting totally drenched in the wash. One crack in the cliff face even let you crawl right up to the side of the mammoth waterfall close enough to let you reach out and touch it.
That afternoon we took a drive down the La Ruta de las Cascadas (valley of the waterfalls). To get there we had to drive through a small flash flood which was spilling over the road. It was also filling people's homes with silty mud and splattered all over the relatively clean Dodge, darn it. Next we drove past an almost overflowing hydroelectric dam that was dumping huge amounts of water on one side while the other was almost bursting and sadly had a large pile of floating rubbish building up. Every waterfall we saw was pumping and every river brown, flooded and wild making for quite the sights. We made use of all this extra water at one point to wash the Dodge and got quite wet ourselves. By far the most spectacular thing we saw was the Pailón del Diablo. We didn't realise what our hostel owner had meant when he said not to go today but we soon understood when we arrived at the falls after the 15 minute walk downhill. The falls were absolutely raging as millions more litres than normal ploughed over the edge sending up huge waves of wash and making the viewing steps a very wet and potentially dangerous place. We pretended like the camera was waterproof and took a short video enjoy the power of the water but getting totally drenched in the wash. One crack in the cliff face even let you crawl right up to the side of the mammoth waterfall close enough to let you reach out and touch it.
After the Pailón del Diablo we headed back to the hostel for yet another shower and changed into the last of our clean dry clothes which for Will left only his ski pants! We then went for a walk in search of some dinner and agreed on a chicken place. The ones where you can get half a chicken, soup, fries and a salad for around $7nz. It was a tasty enough meal but soon after we spotted a Donna kebab shop the first we had seen in South America but we could only walk by with our stomachs already full.
The next morning we again drove through the La Ruta de las Cascadas as its also the road north out of town. The river levels had dropped almost back to normal but we still couldn't resist the chance to ride in a small cable car across the gorge over two waterfalls. Especially now that we were dry and warm enough to do so. We paid our 3 soles and climbed aboard. The trip was over pretty quickly though as once we reached the other side the driver flew us back again at break neck speed. We then continued to our next stop Tena where we planed to do some rafting.
The next morning we again drove through the La Ruta de las Cascadas as its also the road north out of town. The river levels had dropped almost back to normal but we still couldn't resist the chance to ride in a small cable car across the gorge over two waterfalls. Especially now that we were dry and warm enough to do so. We paid our 3 soles and climbed aboard. The trip was over pretty quickly though as once we reached the other side the driver flew us back again at break neck speed. We then continued to our next stop Tena where we planed to do some rafting.
In Tena we found a cheap hostel then visited the two most recommended rafting operators River People and Rios Eucador. As it turned out 48 people had been rafting that day but there was no one booked for the following day so we couldn't go as they needed a minimum of three people to do the class 4+ trip we were keen on. We hunted around town for more rafting partners but didn't find any so decided to stay another day and hope more tourists arrived.
The next morning we bummed around on the Internet before returning to the rafting companies but they still had no new bookings. So we went back to stalking any person that looked like they might want to go rafting. It was easy to pic the tourists from the locals and we soon found Bart and Kelly from Belgium who agreed to come and raft the Jondachi and Hollin rivers with us. The next morning we got up early and squeezed into the backseat of a yellow taxi ute which had the raft and two kayaks on the back as well as our three guides for the day. It was a 40 minute drive to the river valley then a 20 minute muddy walk to the river. We carried only our paddles and life jackets while small locals, mainly women carried our deflated raft, cooler box of lunch, and the two kayaks down to the river like they were toys. We then went through a very comprehensive safety talk and did some practice paddling. It was quite interesting listening to the guide give instructions and the Belgium's listening to them as English was not either of their first languages.
The next morning we bummed around on the Internet before returning to the rafting companies but they still had no new bookings. So we went back to stalking any person that looked like they might want to go rafting. It was easy to pic the tourists from the locals and we soon found Bart and Kelly from Belgium who agreed to come and raft the Jondachi and Hollin rivers with us. The next morning we got up early and squeezed into the backseat of a yellow taxi ute which had the raft and two kayaks on the back as well as our three guides for the day. It was a 40 minute drive to the river valley then a 20 minute muddy walk to the river. We carried only our paddles and life jackets while small locals, mainly women carried our deflated raft, cooler box of lunch, and the two kayaks down to the river like they were toys. We then went through a very comprehensive safety talk and did some practice paddling. It was quite interesting listening to the guide give instructions and the Belgium's listening to them as English was not either of their first languages.
In between rain showers we paddled our way down the shallow rocky river which our guide expertly navigated us through even when the route was tight and complicated. A one stage we got out for a swim and were able to float down two separate rapids. After a delicious lunch of wraps, chocolate cake, fresh pineapple and lemonade our river joined another and the rapids became bigger and more exciting. Though nothing felt too scary and we all managed to stay in the boat. Except for Bart who while hilariously ridding like a cowboy at the front of the boat (under the guides instruction) was bounced out at the top of a medium sized rapid. No problem though our guide had the rope bag out in seconds, within the minute Bart was back on board. We were all amazed at how fast the guide had reacted but then learnt that he was the captain of the Ecuadorian rafting team. All in all the day was fantastic the guide and two safety kayakers were fun but experienced even taking photos and gopro video for us we couldn't have asked for a better rafting trip. Will even wanted to try another river the next day but we needed to keep moving.
That evening we meet up with Bart and Kelly for dinner and a few beers. One thing lead to another and we were soon at a cocktail bar drinking cocktails and tequila shots. It was a fun night though the red jelly I had before dinner followed by the green avocado chicken salad combined with the blue lagoon cocktail made me a little queasy in the morning. We then packed up the car and rearranged it to fit Bart and Kelly for the drive to Quito.
We went in a few circles before finding the right road out of town then ran out gas AGAIN! I'm sure we had more in the tank but apparently not. So we gassed up from the roof tanks on the side of the road to the smiling nervous looks of the Belgians who probably didn't want to hear anymore about all the break downs we have had. They came with us after being robbed on a night bus to Tena but probably didn't realise that coming with us wasn't so simple either. On the way to Quito we stopped at the highly recommended Termas de Papallacta. Fist we had lunch nearby at a over priced eatery, Will had trout and ate the salad while I had chicken. The next day Will discovered the chicken without the salad may have been a better choice (more on this soon). The pools were welcomely hot in the cold high altitude weather and we alternated between the hot pools and freezing plunge pools before continuing on to Quito. In Quito our time with the Belgians was over as we dropped them off on the side of the road in heavy traffic. We said goodbye quickly both knowing we were unlikely to ever see each other again.
In Quito we were staying with fellow overlanders seventeenbysix from the UK who had been stuck in Ecuador for eleven weeks and counting with transmission problems on their 1992 VW van. Without ever having met us they offered to take us in for a few nights at their rented apartment in old town. We arrived later than expected but that was ok because dinner was soon ready. Dinner was a magnificent OVEN baked lasagne which we both had two giant slices of. The next day Will woke up feeling crap so stayed in bed all day which is what you get for eating trout and salad from a road side cafe I guess, though usually we are ok. We're absolutely sure it wasn't Paula and Jeremy's wonderful cooking! They even cooked me eggs for breakfast and I then spent the day blogging and doing washing.
We went in a few circles before finding the right road out of town then ran out gas AGAIN! I'm sure we had more in the tank but apparently not. So we gassed up from the roof tanks on the side of the road to the smiling nervous looks of the Belgians who probably didn't want to hear anymore about all the break downs we have had. They came with us after being robbed on a night bus to Tena but probably didn't realise that coming with us wasn't so simple either. On the way to Quito we stopped at the highly recommended Termas de Papallacta. Fist we had lunch nearby at a over priced eatery, Will had trout and ate the salad while I had chicken. The next day Will discovered the chicken without the salad may have been a better choice (more on this soon). The pools were welcomely hot in the cold high altitude weather and we alternated between the hot pools and freezing plunge pools before continuing on to Quito. In Quito our time with the Belgians was over as we dropped them off on the side of the road in heavy traffic. We said goodbye quickly both knowing we were unlikely to ever see each other again.
In Quito we were staying with fellow overlanders seventeenbysix from the UK who had been stuck in Ecuador for eleven weeks and counting with transmission problems on their 1992 VW van. Without ever having met us they offered to take us in for a few nights at their rented apartment in old town. We arrived later than expected but that was ok because dinner was soon ready. Dinner was a magnificent OVEN baked lasagne which we both had two giant slices of. The next day Will woke up feeling crap so stayed in bed all day which is what you get for eating trout and salad from a road side cafe I guess, though usually we are ok. We're absolutely sure it wasn't Paula and Jeremy's wonderful cooking! They even cooked me eggs for breakfast and I then spent the day blogging and doing washing.
That afternoon Will was feeling a little better so we drove to the Casa del Hombre art gallery. The modern architectural gallery was very different to other galleries we had seen that usually featured tiresome religious paintings. This gallery was dedicated to the famous abstract works of Guayasamin who paintings related to the struggle and suffering of the poor. That evening Paula again cooked us a wonderful dinner of chicken pasta.
The next day Paula and Jeremy were away early to sort out their visa extension after out staying their first ones, instead they got robbed on the bus but nabbed the woman before she got away! After the morning at the police station they finally made it out to immigration. Meanwhile we followed the lonely planets recommended walk through old town and saw many others with guide books doing the same. After stopping to climb La Basilica clock tower we then caught the packed bus back to the Dodge and took a trip to the supermarket as we were on dinner. We were so unused to using an oven that dinner took hours to cook and was finally ready around 9pm lucky we had brought yuca chips to munch on during the wait.
The next day Paula and Jeremy were away early to sort out their visa extension after out staying their first ones, instead they got robbed on the bus but nabbed the woman before she got away! After the morning at the police station they finally made it out to immigration. Meanwhile we followed the lonely planets recommended walk through old town and saw many others with guide books doing the same. After stopping to climb La Basilica clock tower we then caught the packed bus back to the Dodge and took a trip to the supermarket as we were on dinner. We were so unused to using an oven that dinner took hours to cook and was finally ready around 9pm lucky we had brought yuca chips to munch on during the wait.
In the morning we eventually left the apartment with plans to casually drive on over to Colombia. Once again we said good bye to new friends we may never see again though we defiantly plan to keep in touch and swap advice. That's the problem with traveling though you meet so many fantastic people who are willing to help you out or do something together only to never see them again. You are instant friends united by travel yet soon enough strangers again. The experience is always a pleasure but I can't imagine keeping it up for years on end explaining your situation over and over.
I guess we are both missing home a bit lately our family and friends, the food, the safe driving, the cleanliness but mostly the ease of New Zealand's way of life. Here the rules can be ridiculous and while the people are usually trying to be helpful they often don't quite get it and end up making things more difficult.
We plan to enjoy Colombia but we are ready for Central America and maybe a bit of a change.
Rochelle & Will
I guess we are both missing home a bit lately our family and friends, the food, the safe driving, the cleanliness but mostly the ease of New Zealand's way of life. Here the rules can be ridiculous and while the people are usually trying to be helpful they often don't quite get it and end up making things more difficult.
We plan to enjoy Colombia but we are ready for Central America and maybe a bit of a change.
Rochelle & Will