We have been in Chile ten days now and finally left the lovely but busy Santiago just as we were starting to get a good feel for the city and the way things worked, such as you need a BIP card to ride the bus but if you don’t have one the bus driver doesn’t seem to mind. We also learnt it pays to shop around for a good data deal before buying a SIM card otherwise on your first afternoon in the city you will end up buying one with almost zero internet data.
Our second day in Santiago was set aside to get a Chilean RUT (a tax number needed to buy a car) so we organised a local from Couch Surfing to help us, however he didn’t turn up, fortunately for us Claire from Canada with her much better Spanish did! We successfully got our RUT’s and in the process met Julianna also from Canada who was like us getting a RUT to buy her own car. She had been in Santiago a few days and had already found a car she liked so we tagged along to watch the process unfold, in broken Spanish and English between the four of us we made it happen. As her boyfriend wasn’t joining her until later she appreciated Wills help in checking out the engine and Will even drove the car (breaking no less than 5 road rules) for its first trip to the gasolina station. Who knew to fill up would be so hard as at first no petrol came out, then after some investigation we found a lever you have to flip up, all good! Later that afternoon we felt like we hadn’t achieved enough so we went to look at a car we found on the internet, instead we walked about 7km in the wrong direction, turns out Americano Vespuciso is a very large loop road!
Our second day in Santiago was set aside to get a Chilean RUT (a tax number needed to buy a car) so we organised a local from Couch Surfing to help us, however he didn’t turn up, fortunately for us Claire from Canada with her much better Spanish did! We successfully got our RUT’s and in the process met Julianna also from Canada who was like us getting a RUT to buy her own car. She had been in Santiago a few days and had already found a car she liked so we tagged along to watch the process unfold, in broken Spanish and English between the four of us we made it happen. As her boyfriend wasn’t joining her until later she appreciated Wills help in checking out the engine and Will even drove the car (breaking no less than 5 road rules) for its first trip to the gasolina station. Who knew to fill up would be so hard as at first no petrol came out, then after some investigation we found a lever you have to flip up, all good! Later that afternoon we felt like we hadn’t achieved enough so we went to look at a car we found on the internet, instead we walked about 7km in the wrong direction, turns out Americano Vespuciso is a very large loop road!
After once again consulting google maps the next morning we found the car yard and test drove an old Chevy Blazer that looked the part but in reality was pretty old and worn. Next we tried a Ford Explorer, Will wanted to try the cuatro por cuatro (4WD) so the dealer drove us at speed over a sandy rubbish filled hill next to the highway. Needless to say the cuatro por cuatro worked but the hand break didn’t and according to Will the Explorer was lacking in character for our trip. After miscalculating the map again, taking the wrong Metro and then a free bus ride to the next car yard on the list, we found the one! A very good condition year 2000 Dodge Durango was on sale for exactly our budget. The truck ticked all our boxes with big 32" all terrain tyres, roof rack, nudge bar, spotlights, alarm, a strong V8 engine and as a bonus all the rear seats folded flat to make a spacious sleeping area. The skinny young sales man being fast talking and not overly interested in trying to understand us meant that it took almost four hours to agree on a price and only happened thanks to iTranslate.
The following day we took our huge wad of Chilean Pesos to buy the car and luckily met a guy there who acted as an excellent translator. He helped convince the seller and sales clerk that we YES could actually buy the car despite being foreigners. Next we watched with amusement as our sales contract was written up on an ancient type writer. Driving out of the car yard in an elated mood, our orderly New Zealand driving was soon forgotten as we descended into the chaos of navigating Santiago by road. It quickly became obvious if you want to change lanes you just change lanes, indicating is optional but use of the horn is compulsory!
Next day we booked a service for the Dodge and finally by 6pm found a place to tint the windows. We went for the darkest tint they had and moments later five guys were taking all the panelling off the doors and disconnecting electronics in our newly purchased truck. We needn't have worried as they made a quality job and all the windows still go up and down! Meanwhile Will had used his powers of persuasion to convince some cheap grease monkey to change the engine oil and filter with the one's we had bought that day. So there we were at 9pm as all the other mechanics were closing for the day having the oil changed, but it did save us a bit of cash on the proper service.
Next day we booked a service for the Dodge and finally by 6pm found a place to tint the windows. We went for the darkest tint they had and moments later five guys were taking all the panelling off the doors and disconnecting electronics in our newly purchased truck. We needn't have worried as they made a quality job and all the windows still go up and down! Meanwhile Will had used his powers of persuasion to convince some cheap grease monkey to change the engine oil and filter with the one's we had bought that day. So there we were at 9pm as all the other mechanics were closing for the day having the oil changed, but it did save us a bit of cash on the proper service.
With the car away getting serviced we spent the following two days searching far and wide for the things we needed to kit out the Dodge for the journey ahead. It was hot frustrating work in the Santiago sun with our limited Spanish. We walked endlessly around the city looking for things that would take moments to find in New Zealand a spade, tow strop, spare tyre, fuel containers, air compressor, cable locks, bucket, mattress topper and pillows. Each day we would come home scrub our dirty tired feet and drop into bed but eventually each item was ticked off the list. The best part was that we had a bed and it was free as we were staying at Pablo's, a fellow couch surfer with a love of handstands, unicycles and music. We were fortunate to have him and his brother Felipe give us some great advice for our search.
Between all this we made time for an excellent free walking tour of the city, climbed San Cristobal Hill for an amazing panoramic view of Santiago, went out for drinks at the coolest roof-top bar Zully and made friends with Patricio and Véronique. Later in the week with the dodge ready for action they took us up a suspension destroyinly rough gravel road to a remote village in the Andes where we stayed in a local Cabana, drank Pisocolas till midnight and the highlight of the weekend was climbing to a 3000m glacier in the Mountains.
Between all this we made time for an excellent free walking tour of the city, climbed San Cristobal Hill for an amazing panoramic view of Santiago, went out for drinks at the coolest roof-top bar Zully and made friends with Patricio and Véronique. Later in the week with the dodge ready for action they took us up a suspension destroyinly rough gravel road to a remote village in the Andes where we stayed in a local Cabana, drank Pisocolas till midnight and the highlight of the weekend was climbing to a 3000m glacier in the Mountains.
Santiago was good to us, we felt extremely safe even in the outer suburbs. Even next to the countless much loved street dogs who roam the city sleeping happily centimetres from main roads. Finally we should mention Empanada's, we never knew they existed until we arrived here but they occupy a space on virtually every Chilean menu. Similar to a pie they are a half round crimped piece of pastry with a variety of fillings from traditional meat stew with egg to cheese and mushroom. We have eaten them at least six times from all class of place. On the side at a fast food restaurant, confusingly two for one from a street vender and cooked in a traditional Adobe oven at a remote road side eatery. They are delicious and usually cheap we think they would go down well in New Zealand.
This post has come to you via the free Wifi at the old casino now museum in the sleepy surf town of Pichilemu.
Rochelle & Will
This post has come to you via the free Wifi at the old casino now museum in the sleepy surf town of Pichilemu.
Rochelle & Will